Caymans and Cuba

Cayman Island 

A world of contrast between Cuba and the Caymans. We tend to think of ourselves as not being very materialistic. Especially after the fire our material possessions being limited to what you can fit on a boat. However we fell on the Caymanian supermarkets and shopping centres with little cries of joy. Not to mention clean bathrooms complete with the necessary paper products. The Caymans is just like a hotter, more low lying version of Queenstown NZ. There are the tourists, the traffic, the prices, the friendly locals and the gorgeous water. 

Cuba was a delight in so many ways but if you are not going into a resort and are trying to live like a Cuban it can be a challenging place to visit. Over our two months there we experienced the cities, rural villages and sea side resorts. In the hotels and resorts the equipment is fairly modern and you could be anywhere in the world. Step outside the gates of the resort/Marina and you get a glimpse of the day to day life of the people. They have a lot to be proud of. Free education and health care. Their produce is wonderful, honey, coffee, rum, tomatoes and mangos just to name a few are full of flavour and incredibly cheap. Family is important and there is a lot of laughter. The Cubans really know how to throw a party. Apart from Cienfuegos disco music (which started at 10pm and finished at 2pm) Cuba seems to have very little noise pollution. Being used to the modern world of planes, trains and lawn mowers everywhere we really noticed the quiet, especially in the rural areas.

The other side of the coin is the shortages. Often completely random shortages, even if basics like water and flour. Curiously we never saw any shortage of cheap beer and rum. The authorities were, by and large, helpful and pleasant and we only had two negative experiences. They did serve to remind us that we were in a totalitarian regime which brooks no opposition and there is no 'wriggle' room with the rules. Cuba is changing, hopefully these changes will make daily life easier for them and they will not lose the things that make visiting Cuba special.

One point to fellow Mariners, be very careful with your navigation in Cuba. A Australian catamaran we met in Santiago de Cuba came to grief on the reef outside Cabo Cruz. They mistook the lights for the channel into the town inside the reef for the entry markers for outside entrance. Even in daylight we had to look twice to work out which set of markers were the right ones. Also another Spanish boat hit an object in 2,000 ft of water off Cayo Largo and sank within 30 minutes. Fortunately the lovely harbour officials at Cayo Largo were able to reach them as they only had time to get into their dinghy before the boat disappeared. The whole community of Cayo Largo rallied round to help them out.

Clarence Town

Clarence Town and The Crooked Islands

Clarence Town is a lovely harbour with two distinctive churches with Spanish style towers on the hillside over looking the town. It is a prosperous looking settlement from the water, as was Rum Cay, but Clarence Town seems to have survived the recession much better. This is obviously due to the upscale resorts nearby and the Flying Fish Marina which is extending and looks very new and modern. Several large flying bridge sports fishing boats were in residence. As we went in to get fuel we saw several large Lemon sharks lurking around the jetty. One of them would have been at least 8ft long. The reason for their interest was soon clear, the filleting table was near the shore and the fishermen were just dumping big Mahi Mahi carcasses in the water. There was also a very small sign that suggested that swimming was a bad idea. 

We spent two days there and went exploring at the blue hole at the southern end of the harbour.   

The sun, sea and sand were lovely but there was quite a lot of rubbish about. We walked around the point and found two grey torpedo shaped containers and hundreds of small plastic packets, now full of water and sand littering the uninhabited island which faced away from the township. Mmm. We cut our sun baking short and went elsewhere. 

The weather forecast indicated that winds were building from the east so we took the weather window for the Crooked Islands. Following in the footsteps of Christopher Columbus as he travelled down the Crooked Passage in 1492. The harbour at Clarence Town is fully protected but difficult to get out of in an easterly. As we went out we could see why, the swell was impressive as the Atlantic Ocean tries to funnel into the entrance. More motor sailing as the wind died and clocked to the south east. Argh. There was a brief flurry of excitement as a large school of Tuna started chasing their lunch, competing with a small black and white seabird which gamely landed on the water in the midst of the hungry fish. Unfortunately they didn't like our lures so we ended up dining on canned fish instead.

We anchored late off Long Cay aka Fortune Island. The fragrance from the land was incredible. This area is sparsely populated though Albert Town on the ocean side once had 2000 inhabitants as it was a coaling station. Nowadays it would be lucky to have 30 people living there. In this area they still harvest Cascarilla bark to send to Italy for Campari and Maderia bark for medicine and perfume. The historical version of food miles. This morning it rained and we gratefully washed the decks, water usually being too precious to waste on deck washing. Our last load of water cost 30cents a gallon.

 

Then the skipper scanned the shore line and to our amazement here were flamingoes. This is going to sound really obvious but they are shocking pink. If, like I have, you have seen them in zoos they are impressive but to see a flock of around a hundred they are something else again. Posed on pure white sand in clear blue green water it could be a David Hockney painting, hyper real and  not totally believable. 

Cuba

Cuba

The Windward passage lived up to its reputation and was unpleasant but finally the cliffs of Cuba emerged from the clouds and driving rain. After the low lying lands we have been travelling through it was good to see some mountains, not just mountains but the famous Sierra Maestra where Che, Marte and Castro waged their guerrilla war against Batista.

The cliffs on the east coast are impressive and Guantanamo Bay is huge, festooned with aerials and domes but there is a strict exclusion zone which we made sure to observe. Approaching Santiago de Cuba the guide and GPS all said there was an entry through the cliffs and we could see the lighthouse perched high above us but it is not until you are quite close that the harbour becomes obvious. Another surprise was the Spanish sixteenth century castle on the cliff, complete with large sea caves, battlements and cannon. The harbour is a calm and welcoming haven after the large swells of the Caribbean Sea. 

We were boarded by the doctor and his assistant. Apart from the small hiccup of the thermometer reading only 31 degrees for Gary he signed our first piece of paperwork. He also was very good at extracting food, drink and sunglasses from us all while being extremely charming. The customs formalities were fairly relaxed after that and we were allowed ashore at the marina. The marina is clean, well looked after and crumbling, much like the rest of Cuba. There is plenty of rubble but by and large it is clean rubble. The Cubans are ingenious at patching, fixing and making do. We travelled by taxi into Santiago de Cuba variously, in a 1955 Chevy Bel Air (in which the Skipper got growled at for slamming the door too hard), a 1970's Lada and a Fiat 125. The city is large, noisy and entertaining. There are some touts but they are so friendly and charming it is hard to take offence. The hardest thing for us is that you start a conversation then you are asked for something, clothes, electrical goods, fishing gear and you feel guilty about not having something to give them, pencils and soap don't cut the mustard any more, now it's cell phones and anything electronic. In the end we decided not to give anything away, as we wouldn't have any gear left by the time we left Cuba. 

We visited two museums. The Velasquez Museum in the Revolutionary square was beautiful, dark wood and tiles with three original pieces of 16 century furniture, which you are encouraged to touch, not to mention the Limoges and Meissen porcelain. The Revolutionary museum at the former police station was also a beautiful building but everything was preserved in climate controlled cases; the Molotov cocktails, guns, letters and the horrific photos of the dead.

We felt really safe in the city, apart from the pickpocket element. To get to the Music Traditonalle club we had to walk through the back streets after dark. The city Cubans seem to emerge in the evening to stroll and socialise and packs of small children race between buildings laughing and then looking solemn eyed at the strangers. The Music club was small and intimate with wooden chairs and barrels to sit on. The audience was small but the band was fantastic. To complete the picture there was even an older British lady who was here on a three week holiday with her much younger Cuban man candy.

We bartered for food at the marina and were able to buy some provisions at the market and the government supermarkets. The market produce is amazing, so full of flavour and this is the first decent cheese we have had since Tahiti. All I'd ever really heard about Cuba was politics, the American embargo, Havana and Bueno Vista Social Club. So it was unexpected to discover that the rest of the world has merrily been supplying Cuba with goods and services. The Dutch have a ship building plant, Canadians and Europeans holiday here and you can buy Italian Gnocchi and all sorts of pasta in the shops. Most Cubans seem to have cell phones, televisions, thought the lady who offers to do your washing has an elderly twin tub in which all the water has to be added by bucket from the rainwater tank.

Marea de Portilla

Marea de Portilla 

After a pleasant over night sail we arrived in Marea de Portilla intending that this be a quick stop before going onto Cabo Cruz. We are now so glad we stayed for three days to experience rural Cuban village life. Our visit was enhanced by the chance meeting with a Canadian couple, Danny and Sandy (high school sweethearts who love Grease). They have been coming to the resort near the village for fourteen years, sometimes twice a year. Over that time they have become entwined into the village life and they kindly included us in their walks and visit to 'Grandma's house'. Every time they come they bring practical items which will help the people improve their lives or business; socket sets, shoes, light switches. The biggest change they have seen is the government allowing Cuban to start their own business and own their own houses. We think that Danny and Sandy should be employed by the UN for reconstruction work. Awesome couple who really do make a difference. The area is arid and currently in a drought so change comes more slowly than the more populous northern coast. We also met Chris who lives in Cuba for most of the year with his partner and one year old. He was keen to come sailing with us to Cabo Cruz but couldn't so hopefully he will catch up with us as we round the corner and head to Naquilla. I was reminded about one slightly depressing thing about sailing by Henry a Cuban who works at the resort. He asked how long it would take us to Cabo Cruz and we said four or five hours. It takes him half and hour by car and the roads in this area certainly are not speedway ready.

We also had a lovely time visiting the resort. From Canada for around $600 dollars a week you get to stay in a three star resort with all meals, all drinks, transfers and airfares. Unbelievable. Though one of the guests said the equipment has improved over the years, in his early visits there was one toaster shared between the two resorts so if you wanted toast you had to work out which resort had it on that day.

Danny, Sandy, Chris, Anne and Gerry fed and watered us. The food was excellent and we were able to fill our water containers. There have been some rain clouds, thunder and lightening but not much of it makes it over the mountains.

Frank Virgintino's guide to Cuba has been very helpful, especially the navigational guides, though really missing the Explorer charts of the Bahamas. 

Arrived in Cabo Cruz with a spectacular lighthouse. Much to our surprise the Guarda Frontiera said we could go ashore. They also came out with the most adorable Cocker Spaniel, I presume to check for drugs, and she really was unimpressed at the steep ladder into the interior of the boat. Once again the officials have been friendly and helpful and most amused by the Skipper and his English/Spanish dictionary. Though this dictionary being geared for terrestrial travellers, with lines like "Do you want to sleep with me?" is not very helpful when it comes to asking about anchoring places.

Cabo Cruz is on the south side of Cuba and protected by an impressive reef. Once again we are in clear waters and snorkelling is back on the agenda. We visited the restaurant in town which was pleasant and very reasonably priced and had a quick walk down the main road. One downside is that we are not allowed to go ashore at Naquilla, hopefully we will be able to anchor otherwise is will make for a very long day to the next stop.

Conception Island

After all our moaning about the weather we were rewarded by being able to go to Conception Island and stay in settled weather. This little gem is surrounded by the Altlantic Ocean and is a protected park with gorgeous contrast between the deep blue and the green water of the reef. The beaches are a mix of white and pink sand. We also managed to catch Taipan, Tactical Direction, Cerulean and Wyunna and had lovely food, drinks and great company.

The highlight was the inland mangroves. We drifted in the dinghy watching the turtles, birds and fish life. It was wonderful to see mature conch living in large numbers in the shallow waters. We spent so lon there that we had to eat an army ration pack, my first. All I can say is that if an army marches on its stomach then indigestion can't be far behind.

We mistimed the tide and had to wait for an hour to get over the entrance bar. A handy casuarina tree provided shade, just like home. The other boats were about to send out a search party as we almost missed sundowners which is most unlike us.

We are now in Rum Cay which is a lovely island, though the marina is closed which is a shame.

George Town

I It has taken us a little longer than expected but we finally made it to George Town. It does live up to its reputation and it is easy to see why people decide to stay here for most of the winter. It's incredibly organised and there is a range of boater organised acitivities which would easily keep you entertained. Plus we have had a great time catching up with boats we have met over the last few months; Taipan, Mythago, Le Questeau, Wandering Rose, Marnie, Cerulean and Apparition. 

The weather has not been very kind with lots of wind on the nose so have been cruising  slowly down the Exuma Banks. Lee Stocking Island was a highlight. Lovely anchorages and an interesting island to explore. Sadly the Marine Research station has been closed down and the site has been abandoned. We wandered the site and the Skipper was in awe of the facilities they had had. Obviously they took a lot with them but they left behind lovely houses, generator plant, workshops, reverse osmosis plant and much, much more. Not very environmental when you leave behind large bottles of poisonous chemicals, computers and lots of plastic. 

We buddy boated with Apparition to George Town and Keith caught a 1.5 metre Mahi Mahi, which he generously shared with us, it was delicious. I thinks I'm going to have to change my lures or tactics because still haven't managed to get a bite. Mind you, quite glad not to have to try and get a fish of that size aboard Bounty. 

For a Kiwis birthday I painted an apology for the infamous underarm incident.

Reflections on 2500 Nautical Miles

Just a few thoughts for anyone intended to follow our path. Hi, Bob and Robin. 

Anchors: the most important item. Rocna or Manson is the way to go, with a CQR or Danforth as a second anchor, though two Rocna's would be ideal. At least a 120 feet of chain. A really good snubber set up (thank you John, your system is brilliant).

Dinghy: 4 to 9hp motor is ideal. A small Danforth or similar anchor with lots of rode is essential. Being swept through a cut at 4 to 6 knots is exciting but only when you want to. It's really important to carry the following: hand held GPS with anchor point of the boat as a way point, really good oars, handheld radio, flares, water, basic first aid kit, sun cream, spare hat and glasses, survival blanket, some food, a mirror (to check your hair), handheld compass, a container for all this securely tied to the dinghy. Having a long painter for tying up at dinghy dock is really useful. Tie the dinghy to the side of the boat at anchor with two lines, not at the back as dinghies can drift or be 'borrowed' more easily that way.

Fuel: carry lots of spare Racor filters and filter all fuel with a Bahia filter. This drives the marina operator crazy but ignore it, as we did on one occasion and your motor stops in big seas off the coast, not fun. Be careful about using Biocide, that stuff is really, really toxic, a little is all you need. Carry spare engine oil and do all the regular maintenance changes. We have met so many people with basic engine problems. 

Water: a really good rain collection system. With Bounty we have been able to fill our tanks two or three times with lovely fresh tasting rainwater. It doesn't rain much in the Bahamas, so any rain water is a bonus.

Navigation: a Depth sounder is really important. Also using Visual Piloting Rules as even the most up to date charts are wrong in places. In open water avoid plotting your course exactly on the line between way points. We have nearly run over twice by large vessels on auto pilot. There is a tendency to follow the waypoints like lemmings. AIS is fantastic, better than radar.

Explorer charts are the best and we have found Stephen J Pavlidis' guide to the Exuma Guide invaluable for finding out of the way places.

Anchoring: other boats can be a real problem as they like anchor really close to you and don't seem to do an anchor watch in poor conditions. The squalls tend to come through at two or three in the morning and this can cause some sleepless moments. Don't be afraid to ask people to move if they anchor too close, even if they get stroppy about it.

Weather Forecasts: everyone follows Chris Parker and this tends to lead to everyone leaving and arriving all at the same time. He is good but it is better to build your own idea using the barometer, the clocking of the wind, which follows a regular pattern here, the type of cloud, as well as modern aids.

Sailing: lots of on the wind sailing which is great here. Have good sails for windward work. 

Food: stock up on cans, dried milk powder (Nandos, Nestle are good brands), paper towels, meat, chocolate, biscuits, toilet paper, batteries, cereals. We have found it easy to get canned juice, most veggies, sodas and spirits are really cheap, especially the rum and gin but wine is generally expensive and uncommon. The basics are there in most of the small stores and they sell lovely Irish butter. Cheese is often hard to come by and avocados are a treat if you can find them.