Chesapeake Kicks Butt

The day started hot and airless, so we left Willis Creek and headed out intending to go to Gwyne Island. Sails up we wended our way out of the twisty channel past all these huge houses. Beautiful breeze, flat water and we were making 6 knots and even passed a Hunter. We both commented that we could understand the attraction of sailing in the Chesapeake.

Decided not to stop at the island as the wind was so good. Ah the overconfidence of the sailor, seduced by a good breeze. We went out into the bay. Gusting 25 knots and choppy confused sea. Whoops. Not the calm and relaxing sail we had envisioned. However Bounty was a delight. We hit 9.2 knots on one wave. We learned that she does not like going dead downwind and what breaks down below when you are in choppy seas rolling from side to side. We had all the potholes and hatches open and didn't get a drop of water inside. We do love the roller reefing as we reefed the genoa but still had full main and mizzen. Must say we can totally understand why this bay has so many ship wrecks. Shoals, cross currents and then add spectacular thunderstorms and we are starting to think that sailing in the ocean is easier.

Anchored in Little Bay. We have been searching for a quiet anchorage and possibility of sighting wildlife. Gary has a book from the 1980's which describes the bay and these delightful anchorages. Well, so far we have visited three of these and they are wall to wall houses and properties. The wealth in America is quite astonishing. Every place seems to have a yacht, speedboat, jet ski and kayaks and all recent models. Of course you have to remember that just on the Potomac River, not including Washington, 6 million people live. Just a little different to NZ's 4 million for the entire country. As you can see from the photo, this is our quiet anchorage, complete with DJ and loud speakers. Mind you most of the music was from our era, Rolling Stones, Creedence and Elvis.

Sarah Creek Musings

Sarah Creek VA

Best way to go shopping ever. Following an old guide book we took the dinghy down Sarah Creek. Past all the lovely houses, lawn to the water edge, huge power boats and docks. Then on to a reed fringed waterway, looking more and more impassable, a narrow channel throughout the reeds and then a little gap just wide enough for the dinghy where we could just see a track. Tied up and followed the track all of 20 metres and there was the modern world. Supermarket, MacDonald's, the works. Not a bad way to get groceries.

On the way we stopped to ask some fishermen where to find Propane and they immediately offered to drive us to the gas station. So generous. It would have meant a 3 mile walk for us on a busy highway. They wouldn't take any petrol money, just took us to the place and brought us back. Another example of the kindness of strangers.

We are still in lovely Sarah Creek as the weather forecast is still rather ratty, especially as we are heading north and the Chesapeake's reputation for strong winds and short ugly chop is not inviting. Still enjoying the cruising lifestyle except for missing our families and friends.

It is due to our lovely daughter that we are here on this beautiful boat rather than toiling away in a boat yard in Tahiti on a boat that even repaired we would probably always worry about the hull. We can't thank her enough for her clear sighted comments. We both had put so much work into "Woodwind" that to turn around and to walk away was one of the hardest things we have ever done.

Now the hard part is that we are half a world away and she is slaving away at her studies and we miss her so much. Love you, Freya.

I've been reading Erskine Childers's book "The Riddle of the Sands" and it one of those books that resonates with my time and place, despite being written in 1904. The narrator is invited to go sailing. Something he equates with white trousers, deck chairs and a full crew. He ends up on a small, smelly boat with week old bread as staple. Now, "Bounty" is nothing like that but there are still very few mod cons that most people would think are essential. No dishwasher, no washing machine, toaster or microwave. We have become so used to labour saving devices that we then have to go to the gym to get fit. It has been a long time since I have been as fit and healthy as I am sitting here typing this.

We were on a dock and Gary was hand pumping up the dinghy, watched from a 3 tier high snowy white floating apartment. She asked the dock master if it was hard to pump a dinghy by hand. Then when Gary had finished she offered her electric pump to pump it up. I realised then that sometimes the hard way to do things still provides satisfaction.

Sorry, a rather philosophical blog today.

Anchors Aweigh

We attached our new anchor yesterday. It took an epic road trip with Steve, Bob and Judy to the West Maine store. This part of Hampton was nothing like the quiet village atmosphere we were expecting from the anchorage guide. Six lane highway, underpass and overpass. So glad we were not driving.

The new anchor is a Manson. Nothing against the two large CQRs we already have but we have never felt the same way about CQRs since Paihia. When Freya was about six we promised her ice cream and decided to do some shopping. The chart said that the anchoring was not great - sandy bottom. So we anchored carefully and waited for half an hour just to check, this with an impatient 6 year old. The trip ashore was successfully completed and we returned to the dinghy laden with packages. Where was "Mink"? There she was but looking much further out. The poor 2.5hp Yamaha motor was cranked up to max power as we chased our rapidly retreating yacht. She drifted across the main channel and started heading to the rocks on the other side. Just as we started to despair that we wouldn't catch the boat, she stopped. The anchor had finally caught just enough for us to catch up and board. Not long after our second anchoring disaster we brought a new Sarca anchor which was amazing. In January we rode out a 65 knot storm on anchor and didn't move, so very happy to welcome our new piece of hardware.


 
Today we visited Hampton Roads. Great history and the Virginian Space Museum. Well worth a visit. Lots of fun interactive displays. The Captain received the best score on the Lunar Module landing but I won the paper plane contest. They also had the re entry capsule from Apollo 12. The outer coating was almost completely burned away and there were still charred sections from the re entry heat. The gap between success and failure is so small.

The first day - a little out of sequence

The lines were cast off, a beautiful day beckoned and "Bounty" slipped from the Oriental dock. It was very hard to leave such wonderful hospitality. Oriental is a very special place and no words can express how grateful we are for the friendship and hospitality. Mike, Buddy and Jack from Deaton's Yacht Sales. Bernie and his wonderful adventures. Tim and Jenny for a great meal and Ingrid stories. Especially John who so patiently went over the systems of the boat for us and was so generous with his time and adding things to the boat. We have never had such a well equipped boat, and John had set up the boat so well. So many clever details which add to the safety and comfort, he is one of the most impressive people we have ever had the pleasure of getting to know.

One aspect of Nth Carolina we've really noticed is the old world courtesy extended to everyone. Each customer is served, conversation exchanged, no matter how big the queue, there is a focus on the person in front of them. People wait patiently and the rhythm of life may be a little slow for some but it is refreshing. It's a little bit of a shock though when you do come up against someone who is abrupt and rude, mind you then there is usually someone who apologies for that person's discourtesy.

After some sailing and motoring we made it to Bear Creek and anchored in complete isolation. Big sky country. Then we watched the thunderheads building. Awe inspiring and intense. Fortunately we missed the wind and rain and just received the light show.
Day Two
Meet two converts to GPS technology and the magenta line. We were rather bemused reading the charts and guides for the Intra coastal waterway and they kept mentioning the 'Magenta Line'. I even had visions of some amazing American technological laser line. But no, it is the GPS line to follow. We even have sonar. Which in these narrow twisty channels wi enormous barges bearing down on you is a great comfort. We have the paper charts beside us as well but the magenta line is gold.

One of my students when I explained our sailing plans and things like watch keeping systems, asked "Did I not like my husband?" As we would hardly see each other. It felt a little like that today as I kept watch at the front and the Dude steered. One of the best aspects is keeping an eye out for wildlife. The though of seeing a bear is very exciting, especially if it is on the shore and I am safely on the boat. Am really looking forward to going through the Dismal Swamp. Rather an oxymoron, I know but several people have recommended it as one of the best ways to see amazing wildlife. Though the dingy on Bounty has a hole in it from a snapping turtle, so we will try not to annoy such cantankerous fellow waterway users. Still loving the squirrels.

Sublime to Star Wars

From the sublime to the ridiculous.

We started the day motoring gently down the tree lined canal and have ended it Portsmouth VA docked opposite an aircraft carrier.

With absolutely no disrespect to the wonderful hospitality of North Carolina we have finally made it to another state. It is easy to forget how big America is. The canal changed character with tall trees festooned with creeper - Virginian, possibly. We were second in the convoy which does make it easier. There were still a lot of tree stumps in the canal to be avoided. Bob and Judy "Adestra" and Steve "Slow Flight" have been great company and we have all taken turns in going first down the canal. The second lock keeper was an entertainer and there were conch blowing competitions. Bob asked Gary if he had his conch out and Gary misheard and thought he said "cock", so he was a little taken aback till we explained it was the shell. Steve gave us one of his conches but it is harder to create any reasonable sound out of them than you think.

The canal ends and suddenly you enter the deepest and largest port in the world. Six bridges of varying size and. Complexity had to be negotiated, with tugs and barges coming from every direction. Plus the U.S. Navy with patrolling boats that want you to stay at least 50ft from any warship, and this is in a channel that only seems 200ft wide - slight exaggeration there but you get my point.

Our idea of security: 3 aircraft carriers, 4 missile cruisers, 3 nuclear subs, and us. We slept well.

The free docks are right in the old town of Portsmouth with some fascinating history and beautiful buildings. Dinner at the Crab Shack complete with bibs and bucket for the shells. Delicious.

A memorable day. The closest we have ever come to losing a boat and some of the most beautiful waterway travel we have seen. After an early start we called the Elizabeth City lift bridge - no answer. Then Steve from "Slow Flight" called and got a reply. He said to the bridge keeper, two north bound boats to go through and then the bridge opened. Steve went first and we followed. When he cleared the bridge we started to enter, and then I heard the horrifying warning hooter, the bridge was coming down. The skipper threw the engine in reverse, I rushed down the deck to grab the hand held radio, and must say, started screaming at the bridge keeper to stop the bridge coming down. Fortunately quick thinking on Gary's part and a powerful engine we were able make a quick retreat in the tight space between the piers. The foremast was seconds from being crushed and probably pushed through the bottom to the boat. We were so very lucky and so very angry. The bridge guy didn't even apologise, just claimed we were heading south and hadn't tried to contact him, but changed his tone a little with Steve's back up.

Tranquility returned as we headed into the sunrise and the beautiful winding journey up the Pasquotank River. Tree lined and glass calm we quietly motored through the waterway. The reflections were so perfect that the dividing line between water and land was hard to see. Dragonflies, sea eagles, grey heron and turtles came and went in a dream like calm. One log had a pair of eyes which slowly disappeared into the water as we approached, not sure what is was but couldn't help but think of Gollum.

Out of the river we approached our next excitement, the lock. We went a little too close and started to get pulled towards the lock gates. Another quick three point turn, we retreated with only our dignity ruffled and a few leaves as decoration. Boating is never boring. The lock keeper was lovely and it all went smoothly from there.

The Dismal swamp is the largest swamp left on the eastern sea board and part of it was once owned by George Washington. The irony is that the poor slaves who were made to dig the Dismal Swamp canal by hand then started escaping through the swamp (cause they knew it so well) and later on it became part of the escape route to the north. Edgar Allan Poe is also said to have written "The Raven" in the hotel. I can imagine on a wet rainy day this would indeed be an ominous place. Even today it reminds you how insignificant and vulnerable we are when faced with nature without out our protective machines.

2nd August 2014 - Washington NC

The ICW(IntraCoastalWaterway) has been absolutely fascinating, and we really haven't even entered the main canals. Since leaving the fabulous hospitality of Oriental we have managed to sail part of the way and motored the rest. "Bounty" has made friends wherever we have stopped, though we have confused people with having the home port of Opua NZ and flying the American flag and Nth Carolina registration. The waterway is very narrow and shallow in places and we have daily blessed John for the GPS with sonar. It is an amazing piece of technology for us sailors from the stone age. We are converts, especially on Friday when the rain was beating down, the visibility non existant and the channel we had to follow was 9ft wide.

Bath was the first town settled in Nth Carolina and has some amazing buildings, and Washington has wonderful main street and great dock. We have just been listening to a free blue grass concert that happens every Saturday morning in the local art gallery.

While we were sailing up Pamlico River a lady on a jet ski came out and zoomed around the boat taking pictures on her GoPro and she kindly sent us some of the images. Thank you Jennifer of North Creek Productions. We have lots of photos on our camera but somewhere on the boat is the cable that connects it to the computer - mmm. This boat has a lot of nooks and crannies, we will keep working on it and hopefully will have more photos.