Clarence Town

Clarence Town and The Crooked Islands

Clarence Town is a lovely harbour with two distinctive churches with Spanish style towers on the hillside over looking the town. It is a prosperous looking settlement from the water, as was Rum Cay, but Clarence Town seems to have survived the recession much better. This is obviously due to the upscale resorts nearby and the Flying Fish Marina which is extending and looks very new and modern. Several large flying bridge sports fishing boats were in residence. As we went in to get fuel we saw several large Lemon sharks lurking around the jetty. One of them would have been at least 8ft long. The reason for their interest was soon clear, the filleting table was near the shore and the fishermen were just dumping big Mahi Mahi carcasses in the water. There was also a very small sign that suggested that swimming was a bad idea. 

We spent two days there and went exploring at the blue hole at the southern end of the harbour.   

The sun, sea and sand were lovely but there was quite a lot of rubbish about. We walked around the point and found two grey torpedo shaped containers and hundreds of small plastic packets, now full of water and sand littering the uninhabited island which faced away from the township. Mmm. We cut our sun baking short and went elsewhere. 

The weather forecast indicated that winds were building from the east so we took the weather window for the Crooked Islands. Following in the footsteps of Christopher Columbus as he travelled down the Crooked Passage in 1492. The harbour at Clarence Town is fully protected but difficult to get out of in an easterly. As we went out we could see why, the swell was impressive as the Atlantic Ocean tries to funnel into the entrance. More motor sailing as the wind died and clocked to the south east. Argh. There was a brief flurry of excitement as a large school of Tuna started chasing their lunch, competing with a small black and white seabird which gamely landed on the water in the midst of the hungry fish. Unfortunately they didn't like our lures so we ended up dining on canned fish instead.

We anchored late off Long Cay aka Fortune Island. The fragrance from the land was incredible. This area is sparsely populated though Albert Town on the ocean side once had 2000 inhabitants as it was a coaling station. Nowadays it would be lucky to have 30 people living there. In this area they still harvest Cascarilla bark to send to Italy for Campari and Maderia bark for medicine and perfume. The historical version of food miles. This morning it rained and we gratefully washed the decks, water usually being too precious to waste on deck washing. Our last load of water cost 30cents a gallon.

 

Then the skipper scanned the shore line and to our amazement here were flamingoes. This is going to sound really obvious but they are shocking pink. If, like I have, you have seen them in zoos they are impressive but to see a flock of around a hundred they are something else again. Posed on pure white sand in clear blue green water it could be a David Hockney painting, hyper real and  not totally believable. 

Cuba

Cuba

The Windward passage lived up to its reputation and was unpleasant but finally the cliffs of Cuba emerged from the clouds and driving rain. After the low lying lands we have been travelling through it was good to see some mountains, not just mountains but the famous Sierra Maestra where Che, Marte and Castro waged their guerrilla war against Batista.

The cliffs on the east coast are impressive and Guantanamo Bay is huge, festooned with aerials and domes but there is a strict exclusion zone which we made sure to observe. Approaching Santiago de Cuba the guide and GPS all said there was an entry through the cliffs and we could see the lighthouse perched high above us but it is not until you are quite close that the harbour becomes obvious. Another surprise was the Spanish sixteenth century castle on the cliff, complete with large sea caves, battlements and cannon. The harbour is a calm and welcoming haven after the large swells of the Caribbean Sea. 

We were boarded by the doctor and his assistant. Apart from the small hiccup of the thermometer reading only 31 degrees for Gary he signed our first piece of paperwork. He also was very good at extracting food, drink and sunglasses from us all while being extremely charming. The customs formalities were fairly relaxed after that and we were allowed ashore at the marina. The marina is clean, well looked after and crumbling, much like the rest of Cuba. There is plenty of rubble but by and large it is clean rubble. The Cubans are ingenious at patching, fixing and making do. We travelled by taxi into Santiago de Cuba variously, in a 1955 Chevy Bel Air (in which the Skipper got growled at for slamming the door too hard), a 1970's Lada and a Fiat 125. The city is large, noisy and entertaining. There are some touts but they are so friendly and charming it is hard to take offence. The hardest thing for us is that you start a conversation then you are asked for something, clothes, electrical goods, fishing gear and you feel guilty about not having something to give them, pencils and soap don't cut the mustard any more, now it's cell phones and anything electronic. In the end we decided not to give anything away, as we wouldn't have any gear left by the time we left Cuba. 

We visited two museums. The Velasquez Museum in the Revolutionary square was beautiful, dark wood and tiles with three original pieces of 16 century furniture, which you are encouraged to touch, not to mention the Limoges and Meissen porcelain. The Revolutionary museum at the former police station was also a beautiful building but everything was preserved in climate controlled cases; the Molotov cocktails, guns, letters and the horrific photos of the dead.

We felt really safe in the city, apart from the pickpocket element. To get to the Music Traditonalle club we had to walk through the back streets after dark. The city Cubans seem to emerge in the evening to stroll and socialise and packs of small children race between buildings laughing and then looking solemn eyed at the strangers. The Music club was small and intimate with wooden chairs and barrels to sit on. The audience was small but the band was fantastic. To complete the picture there was even an older British lady who was here on a three week holiday with her much younger Cuban man candy.

We bartered for food at the marina and were able to buy some provisions at the market and the government supermarkets. The market produce is amazing, so full of flavour and this is the first decent cheese we have had since Tahiti. All I'd ever really heard about Cuba was politics, the American embargo, Havana and Bueno Vista Social Club. So it was unexpected to discover that the rest of the world has merrily been supplying Cuba with goods and services. The Dutch have a ship building plant, Canadians and Europeans holiday here and you can buy Italian Gnocchi and all sorts of pasta in the shops. Most Cubans seem to have cell phones, televisions, thought the lady who offers to do your washing has an elderly twin tub in which all the water has to be added by bucket from the rainwater tank.

Marea de Portilla

Marea de Portilla 

After a pleasant over night sail we arrived in Marea de Portilla intending that this be a quick stop before going onto Cabo Cruz. We are now so glad we stayed for three days to experience rural Cuban village life. Our visit was enhanced by the chance meeting with a Canadian couple, Danny and Sandy (high school sweethearts who love Grease). They have been coming to the resort near the village for fourteen years, sometimes twice a year. Over that time they have become entwined into the village life and they kindly included us in their walks and visit to 'Grandma's house'. Every time they come they bring practical items which will help the people improve their lives or business; socket sets, shoes, light switches. The biggest change they have seen is the government allowing Cuban to start their own business and own their own houses. We think that Danny and Sandy should be employed by the UN for reconstruction work. Awesome couple who really do make a difference. The area is arid and currently in a drought so change comes more slowly than the more populous northern coast. We also met Chris who lives in Cuba for most of the year with his partner and one year old. He was keen to come sailing with us to Cabo Cruz but couldn't so hopefully he will catch up with us as we round the corner and head to Naquilla. I was reminded about one slightly depressing thing about sailing by Henry a Cuban who works at the resort. He asked how long it would take us to Cabo Cruz and we said four or five hours. It takes him half and hour by car and the roads in this area certainly are not speedway ready.

We also had a lovely time visiting the resort. From Canada for around $600 dollars a week you get to stay in a three star resort with all meals, all drinks, transfers and airfares. Unbelievable. Though one of the guests said the equipment has improved over the years, in his early visits there was one toaster shared between the two resorts so if you wanted toast you had to work out which resort had it on that day.

Danny, Sandy, Chris, Anne and Gerry fed and watered us. The food was excellent and we were able to fill our water containers. There have been some rain clouds, thunder and lightening but not much of it makes it over the mountains.

Frank Virgintino's guide to Cuba has been very helpful, especially the navigational guides, though really missing the Explorer charts of the Bahamas. 

Arrived in Cabo Cruz with a spectacular lighthouse. Much to our surprise the Guarda Frontiera said we could go ashore. They also came out with the most adorable Cocker Spaniel, I presume to check for drugs, and she really was unimpressed at the steep ladder into the interior of the boat. Once again the officials have been friendly and helpful and most amused by the Skipper and his English/Spanish dictionary. Though this dictionary being geared for terrestrial travellers, with lines like "Do you want to sleep with me?" is not very helpful when it comes to asking about anchoring places.

Cabo Cruz is on the south side of Cuba and protected by an impressive reef. Once again we are in clear waters and snorkelling is back on the agenda. We visited the restaurant in town which was pleasant and very reasonably priced and had a quick walk down the main road. One downside is that we are not allowed to go ashore at Naquilla, hopefully we will be able to anchor otherwise is will make for a very long day to the next stop.