There were times on the ICW in 'Bounty' that it felt like we were trying to control a thoroughbred race horse in a bath tub. For a deep keeled ketch with an 8 foot bow sprit and no bow thrusters she is not your typical candidate for an ICW cruise. Going in and out of marinas, waiting for bridges to open in strong currents, hearing the shallow water alarm going just in the wrong spot were times when the old heart rate had a good work out. Out of the five months we have been cruising we can probably count on one hand the times we had all the sails up and there were definitely times when we envied the trawlers going past with their air conditioner and comfy armchairs but we wouldn't have missed the experience for the world.
America is such a land of contrasts and we have been very lucky to experience some of the best it has to offer. The kindness and hospitality, the friendships we have made, the stunning scenery are all etched fondly in our memories. The saddest thing has been how the security since 9/11 has changed travelling and the atmosphere of suspicion it has left in its wake. All the different agencies and differing interpretations of the rules make any traveller, especially on a yacht, confused, nervous and sometimes angry. That said, we have been treated extremely well every time we have encountered the authorities, though we could have done with not having to return to NZ for a visa. A warning for anyone wanting to buy a yacht in the States. You can't leave on a private yacht if you entered on the visa waiver system. Guess where we finally found that information two months into our stay? The British embassy website of all places.
Bounty has been a joy to get to know. She backs surprisingly well for a double ender, which has been a blessing on several occasions. Everything is thoughtfully set up for cruising and even with three of us on board we are all able to have our own space and not feel like we are living on top of each other. We also appreciated NOAA's weather system and U.S. Tow and the Coast Guard, not that we needed them in the end but it does give you a lovely feeling of security.
Highlights have been, in no particular order: South Carolina's deciduous forest and the marsh country, the many dolphins , isolated anchorages, the bird life, squirrels, and manatees.
The best marinas: Lady's Island, Oriental Harbour, Harbour Town
Cities and towns: Oriental, Ananpolis, Bath and Washington NC, Charleston
Best places for boaters: Vero Beach, Ananpolis, Oriental
So, goodbye to the USA for now. It has been a pleasure and a privilege and hopefully we will get to come back and see all the bits we missed.
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