After a pleasant over night sail we arrived in Marea de Portilla intending that this be a quick stop before going onto Cabo Cruz. We are now so glad we stayed for three days to experience rural Cuban village life. Our visit was enhanced by the chance meeting with a Canadian couple, Danny and Sandy (high school sweethearts who love Grease). They have been coming to the resort near the village for fourteen years, sometimes twice a year. Over that time they have become entwined into the village life and they kindly included us in their walks and visit to 'Grandma's house'. Every time they come they bring practical items which will help the people improve their lives or business; socket sets, shoes, light switches. The biggest change they have seen is the government allowing Cuban to start their own business and own their own houses. We think that Danny and Sandy should be employed by the UN for reconstruction work. Awesome couple who really do make a difference. The area is arid and currently in a drought so change comes more slowly than the more populous northern coast. We also met Chris who lives in Cuba for most of the year with his partner and one year old. He was keen to come sailing with us to Cabo Cruz but couldn't so hopefully he will catch up with us as we round the corner and head to Naquilla. I was reminded about one slightly depressing thing about sailing by Henry a Cuban who works at the resort. He asked how long it would take us to Cabo Cruz and we said four or five hours. It takes him half and hour by car and the roads in this area certainly are not speedway ready.
We also had a lovely time visiting the resort. From Canada for around $600 dollars a week you get to stay in a three star resort with all meals, all drinks, transfers and airfares. Unbelievable. Though one of the guests said the equipment has improved over the years, in his early visits there was one toaster shared between the two resorts so if you wanted toast you had to work out which resort had it on that day.
Danny, Sandy, Chris, Anne and Gerry fed and watered us. The food was excellent and we were able to fill our water containers. There have been some rain clouds, thunder and lightening but not much of it makes it over the mountains.
Frank Virgintino's guide to Cuba has been very helpful, especially the navigational guides, though really missing the Explorer charts of the Bahamas.
Arrived in Cabo Cruz with a spectacular lighthouse. Much to our surprise the Guarda Frontiera said we could go ashore. They also came out with the most adorable Cocker Spaniel, I presume to check for drugs, and she really was unimpressed at the steep ladder into the interior of the boat. Once again the officials have been friendly and helpful and most amused by the Skipper and his English/Spanish dictionary. Though this dictionary being geared for terrestrial travellers, with lines like "Do you want to sleep with me?" is not very helpful when it comes to asking about anchoring places.
Cabo Cruz is on the south side of Cuba and protected by an impressive reef. Once again we are in clear waters and snorkelling is back on the agenda. We visited the restaurant in town which was pleasant and very reasonably priced and had a quick walk down the main road. One downside is that we are not allowed to go ashore at Naquilla, hopefully we will be able to anchor otherwise is will make for a very long day to the next stop.
No comments:
Post a Comment